Thailand
November 26, 2003
Sri Lanka to Bangkok, Thailand
There's not much positive to be said for a 2:45 a.m. flight. Only that it gets you to your next destination nice and early. With a flight time of 3:20 hours and a one-hour time change, we arrived just after 7:00.a.m. It seems to take a couple of hours to get out of an airport in a way that leaves us equipped to tackle a new city in a new country. After all the immigration, customs and time-consuming bike assembly process, there is getting local currency, buying a phone card and figuring out how to use it, figuring out the telephones and dialing systems, finding a decent but inexpensive place to stay and, often the worst bit, how to get from the airport with our bikes to wherever we want to go. Easy in a small place; murder in a city of many millions with auto routes and limited access express routes. By 11:00 we had located our hovel, dumped our bags and decided to stay awake by walking around the city.
We had some shopping to do, bike parts, etc. so used the opportunity to explore by foot. We covered miles in the heat 30+ degrees year-round.
The city is tres modern. Some tall buildings, some glittering buildings, an efficient elevated (up to six storys!) LRT system. It is also ancient. Chinatown is a rabbit-warren of once-upon-a-time streets which have gradually been filled by vendors, stalls and roof coverings so that now some of the streets have vanished into effectively an indoor market. Produce, fresh cuts of every animal, clatter and chatter. The biggest seller seems to be reading glasses -- the kind we pay $100 for at an optician, $10 for at Costco and $3 here. The joys of being in an aging cohort.
We are staying in the Sukhumvit area, an old area recently given way to tourists, which means a few big hotels, a bunch of el cheapos and a plethora of street vendors. It also means middle-aged white guys and young Thai women. This is not the red-light district, so its not an exotic or over-whelming characteristic of the area. But its pervasive enough that there is no covertness. Sometimes its just background, sometimes I find it hard not to be judgmental and other times these guys look downright pathetic.
The Banglamphu area, particularly near Khao San, is where all the backpackers and night-life afficianados stay. It is a hive of activity: silk slothing and purses for sale everywhere, more than 100 guest houses in the area; tanned Bohemian-type tourists wandering aimlessly and contentedly; sidewalk cafes and outdoor bars playing North American rock and golden oldies. It cold be anywhere, but its half the price.
Outside Chinatown, Banglamphu and some little central backwater eddies, the streets are packed. No bicycles, but taxis, buses and motorcycles galore. Traffic inches along. Some streets are resignedly called parking lots -- its not much of an exaggeration as the traffic crawls. Tuk-tuks are common but to be avoided -- all the drivers are touts who offer shopping at a friend's store on the way there -- the old rug store trick.
This is one of the few countries where motorcycle taxis are common and legal. And in some cases they are the only vehicles that move. Traffic lights here are very long -- up to two minutes. There's a giant digital display that does a countdown. For the whole countdown, motorcycles edge their way through the traffic. They go between cars. They work their way around cars. They eke their way up the side. Whatever it takes to maneuver their way to the front. So when the light finally changes, a great crush of motorbikes lead the advance. Then a few cars squeak through. And the process repeats itself until about 11:00 or midnight when the traffic jam clears. Even so, it looks fairly suicidal to even consider mounting a motorcycle.
As we walked back from our tiring day we heard 70s music blaring. Rounding a corner, we came upon a square full of people exercising. We're not talking smooth, meditative eastern tai chi here. Instead, music from "Grease" and the Bee Gees blared while row upon row upon row of people kept time to an aerobics beat. Actually, only some kept time. Just like at home, the keeners in the front, the not-so-sure but giving it their best in the middle, and the hopelessly uncoordinated types thrashing about at the back but giggling at the fun of it all. This is apparently done at next to no cost and is free to all participants. A foundation or charity provided the sound system and the instructor. In response, 800 people are enjoying a fitness program. Brent is inspired to get something similar going at home. Imagine our public squares full of fitness buffs. Go, Brent, go!
We had hoped to book into the Atlanta, a place recommended by Brent's brother, but couldn't get an answer by telephone. We checked it out this afternoon -- looks great -- garden, pool, old- style, 600 baht. Next time. But for tonight, the clean but characterless Miami is "our spot".
November 27, 2003
Bangkok
We hit a Starbucks this a.m. Hard to admit, but there it is. We joined about 15 other travelers there and 2 locals. I wonder if its the same ratio elsewhere in Asia?
Bikes are turning out to be a problem. We spent a good part of the day trying to get us and our bikes to Siem Reap, Cambodia. In the end, if not impossible, its damned difficult. We'll be leaving them behind. Trying to later get us and them to Chiang Mai is also proving difficult, but its a must, so we won't give up yet.
We rewarded ourselves for our determined if disappointing results, by having dinner at Baan Klang Nam. I'd read about it in a British Airways magazine on one of our endless flights, and may be documenting the only reported uses of one of those airlines booklets! It was great. A giant open-air room, on stilts in the Chao Phraya River out of the city centre in the Klongtoey docks area. With the water lapping under our feet we watched the harbour activity of freighters, tugs, long-boats as dusk turned to evening and all the lights emerged.
Coconut soup, phat thai, grilled fish, steamed rices and Singha beer. The food here is pretty great.
The place filled up with families, party groups, business types and hand-holding couples at tables for two. One couple pulled up to the river entrance to the restaurant by long-boat -- now that's a kind of decadence I cold enjoy. But .... back to reality and the Miami Hotel.
November 28, 2003
Exploring ruins at Ayuthaya
Every five years or so we take a group tour -- just to remind ourselves of how much we hate them! When time is short and the "wanna-see" list is long, they are efficient, getting us around much more quickly than we could manage on our own. And a knowledgeable guide helps add dimension to the knowledge we glean from our copious reference material. But, holy smokes, do they move quickly past the most interesting spots. And there are some remarkably interesting spots.
The drive to Ayuthaya took about 1 1/4 hours, leaving the the traffic and congestion behind, but the roadways were still lined almost the whole way with rice paddies, houses on stilts because the whole area floods in the rainy season, and only pockets of tall buildings. The entire area is a flat river delta in Bangkok itself is only 2 metres (truly, 6 feet) above sea level, so its easy to explain the mile after mile of rice paddies. It also explains why there are only pockets of tall buildings. Being almost tidal and certainly swampy and unstable ground, means that huge pilings are required for buildings of any size. The expense must be prohibitive.
We stopped first at Bang Pa-in Palace. The illegitimate son of a king usurped the throne (isn't history grand) and built a monastery and temple at this site for his mother in 1632. It fell into disrepair over time and was revived in the 19th century. Since then, new buildings have been added and it is now used for state functions or to house the King and Queen or visiting dignitaries. It consists of moated areas, stately lawns, temples and a rather strange collection of Greek, Italian, Chinese, Thai, Spanish and probably several other kinds of architecture. Aside from its proximity to Bangkok and the glimpses of opulence for dedicated royal-watchers, there's not much to recommend it.
Ayuthaya, on the other hand, has lots to recommend it! About 85 km north of Bangkok, this was the Thai capital from 1350 until 1767 when it was destroyed by the Burmese after one of the attacks in the centuries-long rivalry between the two nations. The buildings were made of firebrick (as were most of the ruins in Sri Lanka) so viewing doesn't invoke the same sense of awe as does ancient buildings of stone like Borobradeur. However, there is enough preservation and restoration to get the layout of the city and the architecture and construction of the buildings. Wat Para Si Sanphet is the old large royal temple. Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit serves as sanctuary to a huge bronzed sitting Buddha. As in all such temples, there are offerings of flowers and burning incense, as the locals pay homage. Again it is the scale of the whole place that is amazing. It covers an area about five kilometres long surrounded on three sides by rivers converging, creating a natural sort of moat. In its time, the city and area would have been home to some hundreds of thousands of people it is believed. But when you're on a tour, they whistle you through the interesting bits. We saw a bunch of buildings and ruins and without time to puzzle it all out for myself, now all I remember is a bunch of buildings and ruins. It is definitely worth meandering through for an entire day. Next time, a room at the guest house on the river, an evening in the little old town and a day exploring this ancient site.
Strangely enough it was the 3 1/2 hour river boat ride from near Ayuthaya back to Bangkok that was a big success in my books. The river must once have been the lifeblood of the area and to this day supports all sorts of activity. In the outskirts the river is lined with houses on stilts, fishing and rowing boats made of wood (teak?). Kids play in the water and adults bathe. A temple appears every 1/2 km or so. From our vantage point it looks idyllic. In practical terms, its probably murder trying to eke out a living.
As we get closer to the city, the river gets busier. Dredging is happening. Barges are moving goods, pop cans, all sorts of stuff that can be transported more easily on water than in Bangkok's congested streets.
And as we get closer still, the density increases. Now buildings line the waterway. Water taxis transporting 40 or 50 people are everywhere. Signs identify the canals and river off-shoots that lead to the villages on water. There's a ski-doo (what do you have to do to get away from those irksome things!?) And in the city centre, some swank hotels suggest the river area is moving up-scale.
The ride was interesting and relaxing. Another time we'll learn to get around more on the water.
November 29 - December 1, 2003
A side trip to Siem Reap Cambodia
The Khmer empire once ruled a large part of what is now Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam and Laos, reaching north toward China. During the Angkorian period (9th to 14th centuries AD), the centre of this civilization was at Angkor, Cambodia. We were determined to see it, although the logistics weren't easy.
Is was impossible to take our bikes. Riding the 400 or so km is possible, but its very slow going. Moving bikes on a plane couldn't be arranged; train was no easier. Bike storage wasn't possible because "left-luggage" storage isn't for items of size. In the end, we had to rent a room in Bangkok for our bikes (but they didn't get air-conditioning or a bathroom or hot water!) and booked our tickets on Bangkok Airways.
When we told the taxi driver we were going to Cambodia, he put his hands together then quickly opened them outward, hollering "BOOM", in reference to the land mines which are remainders of Cambodia's recent war-torn history. Such an encouraging send-off!
The three-day trip was worth every effort to get there. The famous temples of Angkor are spread over an area of about 50 kms, although most are located in a central area near modern-day Siem Reap. The most famous, Angkor Wat, which is one of the Seven Wonders of the World, is the most spectacular with its towers, 3 stone stories, galleries of bas reliefs, moat, entrance ways and temple complexes. Unlike North America where our system of legal liability makes it impossible to move, here you are left to your own devices to wander the grounds, scramble up the very, very!! steep steps into the temple areas and explore the mazes of corridors, terraces, gates and squares. Although there are huge numbers of tourists, and we visit on a Sunday so there are piles of locals as well, the area is large enough that there are lots of solitary places - - especially areas reachable by only those very, very steep steps. It is truly a phenomenal spot.
We have 2 1/2 days, and it is enough -- but barely. At this, we see the main sites and have absorbed about as much as brains can at a first pass. Most importantly, we have a new appreciation of the strength and scope and accomplishment of this once-great nation. But we've left lots yet unseen and lots more to learn on another trip.
| Sat. Afternoon | ||
| 2 hrs | Angkor Thom - layout of old town Terrace of the Leper King - platform Terrace of Elephants - huge viewing platform | |
| 2 hr | Bayon - 200+ huge carved enigmatic faces | |
Sunday | ||
| 3 hr | Angkor Wat | |
| 2 hr | Ta Prohm - feels like being at Raiders of the Lost Ark, with tumble-down walls and gates. Great White Explorers | |
| 1 hr | Phnom Bakheng - where we and 500 or so tourists went for a contemplative experience -- watching the setting sun cast a pink light on Angkor Wat. With no pink sunset, no pink glow. Oh well, we did take an elephant ride to the top. Its much less exciting than I remember it being as a kid at the Seattle Zoo. In fact, its sort of embarrassing. But now we've got that "must do" behind us. | |
Monday | ||
| 1 1/2 hr | Banteay Srei - this is supposed to be gem. Very fine bas relief in a small temple, but 32 km from Anchor Thom so quiet. However, a recently improved road means lots of tourists in a small space. Still worth it, but go really early or be prepared for crowds. | |
| 1 hr | Banteay Samre - small but not crowded spot, so great. | |
| 3 hr | Preah Khan - a great spot with a bit of everything. Monastery, Hindu and Buddhist influences, towers, temples, gates, promenade, moat, near a jetty and former major waterworks. Jungle area close-by. |
While at Siem Reap, we see a half-marathon as well as a 10 km race. We watch with amazement as a kid wearing flip-flops completes the 10k in 44 minutes and a guy with a prosthesis dis it in 47 minutes. I've never broken 50 and Brent at his best would be challenged by "the flip-flop kid".
There are large numbers of amputees in Cambodia, a result of the 10 million land mines once planted throughout the country. Even now, after extensive clearing by international agencies, there remain one million mines and it can be dangerous to head into uncultivated areas (i.e. into untrammeled jungle.) One result is lots of crippled beggars -- and lots of child beggars. Horrible as it is to way, it becomes tedious to be constantly hit on. Their options, though, are extremely limited.
People seem to do whatever they can to eke out a living. Work in a market, grow crops, or make palm sugar by collecting the juice from a palm flower and boiling it down in large pots over an open fire to make concentrated sugar.
Siem Reap itself is a strange town. It is a 2-street town with a tiny market and a few folk who live there. Aside from this, there is a 4 or 5 block tourist strip where all the outdoor restaurants are filled with lounging tourists, and a bunch of big expensive hotels.
The currency is the riel, but everyone uses U.S. dollars. We had brought Thai baht cash, expecting to change it to local currency and ended up getting only $US. Even official transactions like our Cambodian visa and the airport departure tax were in U.S. dollars.
The driver we commissioned to take us from site to site was a godsend. He had completed 2 years of a three-year program at university to become a certified "ancient sites guide" so was knowledgeable and helpful, yet unobtrusive. At $US30 for 2 1/2 days ($US 40 including Banteay Srie distance) and all the hassle- avoidance, he was a great help (earning a big tip!) His father, who had been a teacher and musician, had been exterminated by the Pol Pot regime; the country's dismal history is still raw.
Angkor is a phenomenal site -- one of those "must-sees" of the world. But it looks to be poised for explosive growth. Hotels are springing up everywhere. There are now 20 flights per day to Siem Reap. It is inexpensive. Americans are welcome and as/when they begin to travel again, numbers will skyrocket. All of this suggests that if we want to return we should do it soon, before it becomes spoiled by its own success. It is inevitable and it will be soon. Thanks to Christine and Mark for encouraging us to make this side trip now!
On to Brenda's next Thailand diary.
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